pcb  PCB Toner Transfer Method

Disclaimer

I am not responsible for your actions.  The chemicals used in this method are dangerous as is the hot iron.  You follow this method and the below tutorial at you own risk.  

Materials

  • Muriatic Acid (31.5 % HCL solution) available at Home Depot $5 per gallon
  • Hydrogen Peroxide  3% solution from Walmart
  • Plastic Containers (x2) one for the etchant and one to rinse/soak the board
  • Plastic Forks (x2) to retrieve the board
  • Plastic Container for measuring the chemicals
  • PCB 
  • Clothes Iron
  • Photo-paper (I used semi-gloss, but most people use glossy--didn't seem to matter)
  • Laser Printer (set to maximum dpi)
  • Dremel or PCB drill press with appropriate drill bits for the parts on your board
  • 220 Grit sand paper
  • Acetone
  • Paper Towels

Design the Board

I like eagle-cad to design the schematics, and then use the auto-router to run the traces.  They will not be perfect, especially if you are trying to keep the board single sided, but it will provide a good starting point.  There are excellent tutorials for this FREE program on instructables.com and sparkfun.com.  Do make sure you change the design rules to allow for human error when drilling.

Making the Etchant

The exact amount of each chemical is not important only the ratios.  You want two parts of hydrogen peroxide to one part of muriatic acid.  DON'T DO THIS STEP INSIDE AND USE GLOVES IF YOU HAVE THEM!!!
  1. Measure two of your plastic measuring containers full of hydrogen peroxide (I use a cheap measuring cup and do 1-cup of  the hydrogen peroxide to 1/2 cups of the acid).
  2. Pour it in to your plastic etching vessel.
  3. Open the muriatic acid at arms length, and be sure not to inhale the fumes.
  4. Measure one of you plastic measuring containers full of muriatic acid and GENTLY pour that in to your plastic etching vessel.
  5. Close the chemicals and allow the etchant to settle for a minute.
  6. You're ready to go...

Transfer the Design to the PCB

  1. Print you design on the glossy side of the photo-paper (try not to touch the image with your greasy hands after printing it) and cut it to size.  Also, make sure your printout is the correct orientation (you may need to mirror the image if you designed for the top layer of the PCB).
  2. Cut your PCB to size and sand all jagged edges with the sand paper.
  3. Lightly sand the face of the PCB until all the surfaces are shiny.
  4. Clean all the surfaces of the PCB with the acetone.
  5. Heat your clothes iron to its HOTTEST SETTING.
  6. Place the photo-paper on the PCB with the toner side facing the copper-clad on which you intend your traces to be.
  7. When the iron is hot, heat the whole board, with very firm pressure, for 5 minutes.  Follow this by using the tip of the iron, with very firm pressure, to trace all of  the black parts of your printout.  If done properly, the plastic toner should melt and fuse with the copper.  If it didn't stick to the copper, heat it longer, or you may need to clean the PCB and start over. (note that you may need to let the pcb cool a little before you can really acertain the level of adhesion you obtained)
  8. Move the board to the rinse container, which you should have filled with cool water.
  9. Allow the board and paper to soak for about ten minutes.
  10. Remove the board, temporarily, from the water and peel off the back layer of the paper.  This will allow the water to penetrate the remaining paper so that you can eventually rub it off between your fingers.  It should look like this.
peel the paper
  1. Return the board to the water and allow to soak for ten or twenty more minutes.
  2. Remove the board again and rub all the paper off the rest of the board with your fingers or a soft, plastic bristled brush.  It should look like this when your done.
rub off paper
  1. Inspect the board for any places where the toner didn't transfer properly.  If it didn't get it to adhere properly, clean the board with acetone and start over.  It's better than wasting your board.
  2. Now you are ready to etch..

Etching the Board

  1. Use the plastic forks to move the board in to the etchant-tub.
in the tub
  1. Agitate the board gently with the forks and monitor the condition of the copper.  When it looks like its done, it is; remove it to the rinse/soaking tub.  The etchant will turn green as a product of the reaction.  It looks like this.
done etching
DO NOT DISPOSE OF THE ETCHANT IN YOUR SINK OR ANYWHERE WITH METAL PIPES OR DRAINS!!!  I have read that you can add more hydrogen peroxide and use the mixture again and again, but I have never tried it.

Finishing Up

  1. Let the board soak in the water for awhile.
  2. Rinse under running water for a few minutes then dry with paper towels.
  3. Clean the toner off with acetone and paper towels.  The board should look like this.
clean board
  1. Finally, drill the board and solder on your parts.   Cross your fingers and power up the board.  You're done!
back of board
top of board


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